Hendry Unoaked Napa Valley Chardonnay 2024 Lettie Teague WSJ On Wine Lagavulin and steak

Lagavulin and steak

rounded out with Cuis

who honed her craft in Volnay and Champagne

all limestone tension and dark florals

a faint reductive grip

Hendry Unoaked Napa Valley Chardonnay 2024 Lettie Teague WSJ On Wine Lagavulin and steakThe Hendry family has farmed the same ranch at the foot of Mt. Veeder since 1939, and this is the bottling where they get out of the way. No barrel, no oak, no makeup: the Chardonnay goes into stainless steel and stays there, so what you taste is the fruit and the cool marine air that funnels into the southern end of the valley. The vines are older, low yielding Dijon plantings from the mid 1990s, which is where the concentration comes from. It's a